I'm not sure I want to treat my steel mags though.FYI - if the pics dont work, here is a link to this whole mag process, on a website: I will be doing it to the other alum mags I have. I tested it on a beat up 20rd mag just to see how it comes out. I would recommend doing it in a warm environment and letting it cure for longer than 1 hour. The CRC Moly stuff seems to work just like the USGI finishes: gives it a grayish appearance and comes right off after a few mag insertions.ĮTA: It goes on fairly thick and runs, but when it dries it's actually quite thin. Overall, if I could find Permaslik G or an equivalent product locally or online w/o paying $20-$30 per can, I would have gotten it. I think one reason why the DH mags are so cheap now is the thinner finish (saves on cost). I bought some NHTMG 20rd straight mags (LE marked) and they had a thicker gray finish than the DH mags I got from DSG Arms. It finishes with a matte-style finish, BUT if you let it dry and polish it with a napkin, it turns glossy.Īs for its durability, I'd say it's no better than the standard gray teflon finish you would find on the USGI mags. It's a dark brown/gray finish, nothing like Perma-slik G in appearance. Dont bother with the refinishing, the mag isnt going to work any better with the new finish. If you dont really care how it looks then a used unrefinished mag with a new green follower is all you need. So coating with a teflon based moly coat isnt likely to stick to the old finsih, it will probably wear off easily.

Most of the old mags are dry film lubricant, not teflon moly coat like the newer ones. It looks just as good, but not sure how that will last. I did refinish some mags without removing the remaining finish. Wont really make the mag work, feed, function, or last longer, but it will look new longer. Its not necessaary, but it makes the finish stick much better, and prevents chipping off way better. I allways heated it after spraying it down to bake the finish on. Go to and search for 'teflon moly', should tell you more about it. But it will make the moly coat stick better. I dont know about heating before you spray, I would think that would make the pores smaller and not allow for as much penetration. I will be doing it mostly on old USGI mags and on my T-65 steel mags. Why is heating the mag required? I can understand proper chemical/solvent prep for paint but since the finish is designed to be worn off, couldn't you just clean it off and spray the lube? This works fine for me, I havent had any of the finish chip off, but some of it does get worn off around the top (scratches from the mag well on tight fitting mags) and on the lips, but this happens with any AR mag anyway. I also used to paint the floorplates with regular Krylon satin finish, add a new green follower and they look brand new. Let em sit for a day before putting them back together. Then let em sit for an hour or so and do the same for the other side of the mag. Then I would let em sit for about 5 minutes, then bake in an oven on a cookie sheet at 250 for another 10-15 minutes. Then I would lay them down on some newspaper and spray em down with a few passes, not a thick coating! Only doing one side! Just enough to cover the mags. If you are budget challenged, or dont mind spending more time on this, i would imagine some 300 or 240 grit sandpaper sheets would work fine instead. Use the bigger wire wheel to give it the once over, then when you got as much removed as possible use the dremel tool to get all the smaller spots. I used to use a dremel tool with the little round sanding paper disc and one of those wire brush wheels that goes on a power drill. Sand off all of of the old dry film or teflon coating. This worked awesome, I was selling these for $25+ each before Ebay put a ban on assault rifle parts.įirst take the mag apart so you are left with only the mag body. I used to refinish mags with Dry film lubricant to sell on ebay.

Perma slik g dry moly lube